Sunshine! How wonderful! After days of murk & rain, to be out on Balmoral estate, admiring snowy Lochnagar while basking in the warm sun, was such a huge mood lifter.

The estate itself around the castle being closed until the weekend, we did have to use South Deeside Rd, but this was balanced by a lovely path up the side of a dry rocky mossy valley. The Glen Gelder track highlighted Lochnagar , then, passing Ripe Hill, we took a quiet little path that crosses over to Ballochbuie – the path now somewhat tarted up with cross drains, but I guess that’s progress…

The 12 strong group visited the 2 highpoints, Cnap a Choire Bhuidhe and Craig Doin, all pathless rough moor, with the best views, then the Purchase cairn itself, its plaque announcing the first act of conservation in Scotland – the saving of Ballochbuie Forest by Queen Victoria in 1878 – “the bonniest plaid in Scotland”.

A sweeping offpath descent through an old but airy pine forest brought sightings of deer, then the high traverse path showcasing the Dee valley and hills beyond. More deer, tame this time, for some, while others tackled the Allt Lochan nan Euan burn crossing – no longer recommended now that one of the huge stepping stones has been washed away.

A most enjoyable walk, with much thanks to the weather!

Thank you to the drivers Nick, Sue, June and John, coping most competently, as ever, with the swap arounds of an A-B walk.

Long Walk: Dead Wife’s Hillock & Scaut Hill

The threat of snow and rain vanished and we were left with a lovely day out in the remote hills of the Cabrach. Well, I say remote, but the 14 of us were accompanied by the view of the 59 wind turbines of the Dorenell Wind farm throughout the day. They are indeed elegant structures, and out here, where so few people walk, it did not seem so intrusive - there are anyway so many windfarms to be seen around the Cairngorms National Park, and especially as we can now sadly compare them to those destined for Hill of Fare at the double the height of these.

Our route passed an attractive little section of the Black Water, we appreciated the shelter of a plantation, Scaut Hill was a very tough offpath ascent but managed with (relative!) ease by the group, before heading down for some easy walking on the windfarm’s top quality tracks. Lunch in the sunshine at the abandoned Blackwater Lodge gave opportunities for exploring, before track took us up to the Dead Wife’s Hillock. The website Scotlands Places has this excerpt from 19th century Cabrach parish records: “It is said that during the famine in the end of the 17th Century, "the seven ill years," A woman was found dead there, who had perished of want, with a child alive sucking her breast, and that it had since retained this name.”

Now turning north, we had a few kilometres of boggy heather moor before visiting the Meikle Firbriggs trig and heading down the track to the start. Although our high point was a mere 607m, we tackled some quite tough ground in country far from our usual stamping grounds. Great views of difficult-to-name hills!

As always our grateful thanks to the drivers Nick, Sue, Sandra and Bill, additionally for being prepared to tackle potentially difficult driving conditions!

Saunter: Ben Newe

The day dawned bright and fair, with a promising band of bright blue sky to the west. The journey through Alford to upper Donside was uneventful and the quietude was only disturbed by our arrival at the parking area with the noise of car doors and the hailing of our fellow saunterers. Plenty of room thanks to the requirements of modern foresters and farmers who seem to need ever larger implements to carry out their work with fewer and fewer employees. On our walk we’d see the results of their labours and also much that remains to be done.

We turned our back on the main road and started up the track gradually climbing out of the valley of the Don on a series of zig zagging forestry roads well designed to make it easy to gain the altitude without working too hard with mature Scots pine on one side and Sitka spruce on the other, the former a much more open area letting the light in with the occasional sunbeam reflecting off their coppery trunks. Another advantage of the regular change in direction of the track was the changing view and we were soon looking out over the fields above Buchaam farm, a sizable complex of buildings but no signs of sheep in the fields or cattle in byres and unlike areas on Deeside no horses either.

The track steepened as we pressed forward feeling that we deserved a coffee stop; all this uphill a bit of a novelty for the Saunterers after last month’s coastal stroll and so it was that a halt was called at yet another bend in the road surrounded by forest. At this point in the walk the track disappears darkly into the forest well hidden by low growing branches, unpromising but thanks to the recce the Saunters had the confidence to plunge in, and shortly afterwards were absorbed into the half-light of a track that looked as if it had been forgotten, the floor of the forest carpeted in moss and long shed needles and the downhill trend made for a relaxing walk.

We emerged into the daylight after negotiating by the now obligatory fallen tree or three at the edge of the forest and onto a grassy path bounded by juniper with a view towards Glen Buchat and to the east though strathdon. We’d lost height in the forest and now the only way was up, straight up in indian file with some of the tribe wondering if we weren’t climbing the hill twice! But the going was good on the wet grass and after skirting more fallen forest a shoulder of Ben Newe was gained but as yet, no way up was obvious. Another descent, insignificant really, gave us good views of a snowy, cloud-capped Morven looking as cold as Erebus. Hereabouts the summit path sets of steeply at first and like the forest road twists to take the gradient easily before settling down to a short steady pull to the top. And what a fine top with all the accoutrements of many a higher hill; a fine craggy, pointy top with - yes - a trig point, benches built into the cairn and excellent views into Glen Buchat. We were all very pleased with our efforts but as there was a snell wind and lunch time was approaching we didn’t linger long, and headed downwards towards more clement conditions.

We hunkered down in a sheltered spot surrounded by toppled trees for lunch just off the track to be met by one of our number who had parked in an alternative car park and made his own way up, past us with a quick stop for a refreshment and on to the summit. We said we’ll see him later and so it proved.

The route after lunch was a grassy track over the shoulder of the Hill of Greenstile whose trees must have been clear felled some years ago and the ground replanted but unlike forested areas elsewhere here there are no deer or any other fences giving the hillside giving a lovely open feeling to the passer by. This, however is short lived as the track has been swallowed up by wall of mightily tangled wind-blown trees, making any planned progress here impossible. Not to worry as the recce had shown that the route down the edge of this disturbance led to another road that led to more zig zags that led down to the main road. Again, the prospect down to the fields with fine examples of bare beech trees standing clear of the scrub was a joy particularly as sunny intervals were becoming more frequent and the views out to Morven clear of cloud were outstanding as it seemed to be lit by cloud reflected sunshine. A surprise by the track was a sunny bank clothed with primroses in full bloom, the lush tongue like leaves fresh shining in the damp and the rich buttery blooms greedily taking in the sunshine as we took in pleasure at this first sign of Spring.

The last stretch of track by the Don is the old road that went past Newe Castle built in 1831 to designs by Archibald Simpson, a building that was said to rival Balmoral. Such was the influence that Charles Forbes had was that the route of the old road next the Don was diverted away from the Forbes estate with the building of the current road on the south side of the Don, to allow them more privacy in 1856. A new bridge at the eastern end of this road opened in 1858. It was this family who changed the name of the estate to Newe from New to ensure that mail posted to them didn’t go to Newcastle upon Tyne.

We crossed the said bridge and took to the Deskry farm fields keeping well away from the Deskry dung heap and on past a plantation and down to the banks of the Don. A little used farm track took us parallel to the river bank and on along the edge of fields some strewn with the debris of the river in spate. Here, although the main road was just across the river there was a sense of quiet space we hadn’t had before on the walk, a pleasure of being off the hard track, in places finding our own way through the grassy tussocks once we’d left the fields.

Another bridge at Dunanford was conveniently placed to carry us over the river, here we paused to contemplate a super varied walk that came to its conclusion all too soon as the car park lay just across the road. But not before what might have been a nasty sting in the tail had to be negotiated as a bog found on the recce had dried up a lot.

The pleasures of the afternoon still awaited to be concluded as we’d arranged to take a refreshment at Kildrummy Inn, an establishment that has a reputation for hospitality and good food. To say they excelled themselves is mild praise as we were ushered into the private dining room and settled round the table, given long enough to appreciate the opulence of the setting before being presented with freshly baked scones and enough whipped cream, butter and blackcurrant jam to wipe away any calorie deficit our walk had caused all taken with brawny builder’s tea. Even Sir Charles Forbes in his castle would have been envious!

The weather is beginning to pose challenges for eastern hillwalkers (those in the west are more accustomed..). The ups and downs of wind, rain, snow, ice and temperature, the last minute changes in forecasts, to say nothing of named storm after named storm – it can all feel rather overwhelming.

But today we were so so lucky. The sun shone, the wind blew but not enough to discommode us, the snow was neither negligible nor deep, the panoramas that surrounded us were superb - Deeside mountains at their best. The walk was just 10 miles but included a not straightforward initial ascent of Craig Nordie; the plentiful heather bashing went very well, and although the tracks were prone to drifted snow, Nick and Peter forged the way ahead, making life so much easier for the rest of us.

We wandered moors known only to those with guns, and experienced views of familiar hills completely new to us. The only hint of another human being were some old bootprints in the snow for a short while. The lying snow did make the walk a challenge, though, and we all agreed we would sleep well tonight! A great day out.

Mega thanks this month to drivers Alison, James, Malcolm and Peter Ba – road conditions were far from perfect in the early morning (gritters had the day off?) , and it is always intimidating to pass a recently wrecked vehicle lying on its side…but they coped wonderfully. And thank you to the 15 walkers who had quite a tough day in the hills but performed excellently!

Long Walk - Bennachie & Millstone Hill

I know, Bennachie is well known to all Aberdonain hillwalkers, but we enjoyed a route with a twist, a route from the often neglected Donview carpark, that lies to the south of the plateau. A lovely path led us north and, after crossing an area of recent felling activity (there’s been a considerable amount of tree activity here recently, causing havoc on tracks and paths, and making life extra challenging for a walk organiser!) we turned off the normal forestry track on to a steep path through beautiful open woodland, an absolute treat, and all due to mountain bikers who seem to be making their own routes on Bennachie.

Once up on the Gordon Way, we headed firstly for Watch Craig, and then on to Oxen Craig, Craig Shannoch, and finally magnificent Mither Tap itself. Wonderful views tempered by a cutting wind (what’s new then?). The arrow descent to Heather Brig and then, after all that, the climb up Millstone. Great path, and, on top, yet more wonderful views and powerful wind. OK, the descent is pretty steep…

Many thanks to Sue, who put a lot of work into making a great route on a familiar hill, and did a brilliant job – we loved it! And always our thank you to the drivers, without whom we would not even get to the bottom of the hill.

Saunter Report - Inverbervie

A dull day dawned but thankfully calm and settled for our saunter, a circular walk to Mill of Benholm and return via Gourdon. No hills worth mentioning, no heather but lots of interest, lots of history in an area where agriculture and fishing have dominated the community in the past and still do to a lesser extent. The flourishing harbour at Montrose with the presence of Baker Hughes may now provide employment for some Bervie folk just 20 minutes’ drive away.

Our drive ended at the beach car park next to the stoney foreshore, the flat area had been a railway yard and the path we were about to set out on the bed of the former Montrose to Inverbervie railway that was finally closed down in 1966. The old railway route took us past Hallgreen Castle looking dark and forbidding amongst the trees, not at all welcoming for the holiday makers who now make up the castle’s usual residents. We left the tar to climb the path past the Castle and to higher ground above the foreshore field where a small solar farm was doing its best to gather in the meagre winter light. A metal detectorist was also busy in the field.

A short walk through an old stand of trees, probably a field shelter belt but now resisting the south wind for a modern housing estate that we left behind for the open fields of Sillyflatt Farm. Here a huge field was carpeted with the fresh growth of winter cereal while on the other side of the fence was a flock of sheep comprised of what looked like the same number of black sheep and the same number of white sheep. A woke farmer, perhaps.

Taking our life in our hands we crossed the A92, the new road built c1800, we however made our way to the old road that carried 18th century travellers in their coach and four south to Montrose and beyond. This route takes a higher line, about 100 m up the hill above the A92 giving a gentle, steady pull up from Inverbervie with fine views back to the town, points north and out to sea. The track is still used by farmers and the occupants of the few houses that stand by the way that led us down to Benholm with its substantial bridge spanning the 13m gorge of the Castle Burn. The village, situated on the old main road to Aberdeen to Montrose must have been a lively, well populated place in its heyday as the kirk built in 1832 could seat a congregation of 768. The church is open every day and outside and inside is just as it was built 192 years ago.

Back over the bridge and around the corner was the gate that let us into the grounds of the Mill of Benholm. The Mill is a water-powered historic mill in a beautiful and peaceful setting and is now a charity working to find a sustainable use for the site benefiting the community and to stop the ongoing deterioration and to preserve the Mill of Benholm for generations to come. A web site with much more about the Mill and the work of the charity is here.

We made our way to the start of the mill lade and followed it to the newly dredged mill pond. Information panels, a legacy from the ownership of the mill by Aberdeenshire Council describe the workings of the mill and its hydraulics. The buildings sit close by the stream, shuttered and silent but it’s not difficult to imagine the rushing noise of water in the mighty mill wheel, the grinding stones doing their work and the smell of freshly made oatmeal. The imaginary smell must have sharpened our appetite as we settled down in an almost sunny meadow for lunch.

Our way was now to return to the coastal path but not before a stop in the mill car park to study the collection of books in the Wee Library, a small glass fronted, pitched roofed box on a post encouraging passers by to borrow and return a book. Here the A92 has to be crossed again and we waited while duelling motorbikes roared by but peace and quiet resumed as we walked down to the Haughs of Benholm and turned towards Gourdon.

Gourdon is a lively town with a fine harbour still used to land catches although being a Sunday afternoon it had a very sleepy feel to it and at a corner of the quay we stopped to watch the tide lap in or out. Adjacent to this corner is the Harbour Inn looking very welcoming, so in some of us went to enjoy its hospitality before resuming our saunter back to Inverbervie.

Main Walk

After what felt like weeks of unending rain and wind, this day was a gift from the gods. The sun shone all day and the wind didn't blow - incredible! Never before have I walked on a Northeastern Scotland beach without sand blasting everywhere…

Much of this section of the coastline starts low, with flat beds of rock showing as the tide drops. The tide didn't drop quickly enough for the eighteen of us to admire the blowhole, but we saw the signal tower and rows of derelict fishermens cottages, the last wild salmon catchery in Scotland, we sunbathed at coffee break in a sheltered cove on the beach, climbed to the cemetery to find the gravestone of the man who died before he was born, photographed the elephant rock (really quite like an elephant!), passed more derelict cottages (limekiln workers), then the huge 18th century lime kilns themselves; we tolerated the necessary road walking very well but welcomed the path to the beautiful sands of Lunan Bay while impressed by the height of the railway viaduct we passed under.

Another sunny break for lunch, looking out for more sightings of the lone dolphin seen heading south, then the best walk ever down a beach, so great we missed the turnoff to take us to the bridge over the Lunan Water, the grand stone ornamentation of the Lunan Bay Hotel suitably impressive, but the 15th century Red Castle, still standing despite a landslip leaving one corner of the tower in fresh air, was well worth the short steep climb up.

And finally, as the sun sank in the still clear sky, the last walk down the final stretch of the bay, and then, after easy going since the start, we then encountered frozen mud and ice as we headed inland along tracks to Inverkeilor. Nevertheless a lovely quiet finish to the day.

Thanks also to John A for great backmarking, and to drivers Andy R, Geoff, James, John A and Moira for coping impressively with the complicated arrangements needed for this A-B walk, and for managing to catch up with the passengers, who had set off without them. And how could I forget to mention the thrilling dredger that spent the entire day moving very very slowly up and down the river???

Sunday Saunter

Potentially icy roads and floods didn't deter 14 saunterers from coming on this New Year walk and they were rewarded with an excellent day out in misty sunshine and excellent views of Deeside all round.

The short walk past the 1930's bungalows on well salted pavements got us off to a good start and perhaps a false sense of security as the lane that led us into Allach Wood was very icy but careful route finding avoiding the worst of it and the potholes made us aware of the need for care on this route. The going in the sheltered wood was much easier and as we emerged from it, we wondered about the fate of the collapsed (dismantled?) parapet on the 1787 bridge. We were soon keeping to the verge of the road past Aboyne Castle, a much-reworked pile modified as recently as 1969, looking splendid in its buttery coloured rendering. Other estate buildings came into view as we progressed along the arrow straight road, the original North Deeside Road according to an authority in our midst. Outstanding across the fields is the Coos' Cathedral, originally a fancy byre built by Sir William Cunliffe Brooks, of Glen Tanar and now a wedding venue.

Just across the B9094 the route continues on an old track parallel to the road and bounded by wet fields feeding water into the greedy ditch keeping the path dry. Here mature beech trees line the way gently uphill until we have to cross the road again and descend into pine trees that will accompany us, one way or another, over Mortlich. The easy-going path leads down to an impressive new, i.e. 20th century footbridge over the Tarland Burn and onwards towards the drive up to Coull House, a white painted mansion originally built and owned by Alexander Marshall Mackenzie, architect of Marischal College, Crathie Kirk the Waldorf Hotel in London and much more elsewhere.

Hereabouts the moist atmosphere beaded the bare branches and twigs of the birch trees and the sunshine was strong enough to raise a film of mist that came and went in the time it took us to have a coffee, borne away on the faintest of breezes. More evidence of the freezing weather, if it was needed was the glassy surface of the loch kept stocked with rainbow trout for the permitted angler. Here the angler and the trout would have been hampered in their activities by the icy lid on the water. Not so the canine saunterer Jura who enthusiastically grappled with the thin ice relishing the brittle challenge disregarding the cold water and enjoying the play as dogs do.

Around there were lots of signs of forestry activity that had changed the surroundings but not in an unpleasant way as many of the mature pines were still standing, perhaps yet to be felled. This work had cleared the area of wind-blown trees that proved a challenge for us on an earlier saunter in the area, all that remained showing the storm damage was the crushed fence. Further on we passed new fences, roads and a group of small caravans, perhaps to shelter workers. A new track beside one of these fences gave us a route to the hill that bypassed the old footpath, an easier walk but less interesting. This track follows the edge of the newly planted area, a long, straight, boring trudge up the hill. A slight diversion through the undergrowth enabled us to access the older, much more interesting and possibly steeper track to where the incline levelled off enough to allow lunch to be taken with good views of Morven and Lochnagar for company.

Still the summit was yet to be achieved and after lunch the track got steeper, the chunky red granite bedrock surfacing the path began to resemble a scree and our pace slackened. There was a collective selecting of low gear as the end of the track and the summit cairn appeared out of the heather. Here the remains of a fort or a memorial of some sort or both form the rough cairn. A deeply inscribed slab commemorates the life of the Marquis of Huntly lies discarded that on a warmer, dryer day would form a good bench. Just below the summit an awkward outcrop has to be avoided watching out for a rusty barbed wire but then the way down is clear as this is the favourite route to the top of this popular hill. Down through the pine trees on a footpath and on through russet brown collapsed bracken almost shining in the low afternoon sunshine to the still water of the Loch of Aboyne, bull rushes standing tall, a reminder of long-gone lush summer vegetation. And as we left the golf course the mist was reforming chasing us back to the cars.